A Visit to Adam-ondi-Ahman
By the Editor [Heman C. Smith]
Journal of History, 9 (April 1916): 130-142.
1915 Tour of Northwestern Missouri Sites


Rocky Glen at Adam-ondi-Ahman.

    We have long been planning a visit to what was known in former days as the city and stake of Adam-ondi-Ahman. . . So opportunity offering itself, the historian in company with his wife, his eldest daughter, Mrs. James W. Davis, and Brother and Sister Charles Brackenbury left Lamoni, Iowa, on October 29, 1915, in Brother Brackenbury's comfortable automobile, bound for Missouri's borders. The weather was ideal, the landscape was beautiful, decorated with the crimson, scarlet and gold of autumnal glory. The roads were smooth and hard. We passed through the towns and hamlets of Eagleville, Bethany, Blue Ridge, Gilman City, Madeline, and Jameson.
    Three miles below Jameson in a retired place, off from any line of travel, on the east bank of Grand River we found the ruins of the once prosperous city of Diahman. We arrived on the hill above just in time to witness a magnificant [sic] sunset reflecting its gorgeous rays upon the meandering waters of the river and the hills beyond. We descended a narrow valley between the hills of Adam-ondi-Ahman and Tower hill to the edge of the broad valley lying in the great bend of the river; where we engaged accommodations with Mr. Roy Dickerson and wife who reside on the old farm of Lyman Wight, from which himself and family were driven by a lawless mob just seventy-seven years before.
    We spent a good part of the evening in reading the history of the place, preparatory to our explorations the next day. Our investigations disclosed that the place was first settled by Lyman Wight about 1836 or 1837. In a petition now on file in the archives at Washington, District of Columbia, filed in 1839, he states:
    The petition of Lyman Wight most humbly showeth that petitioner [page 131] from the State of Ohio, to the State of Missouri, in the year 1832, [1831] where I hoped to live in peace, but after toiling and undergoing all the hardships of a new country for two years, and suffering many privations of the comforts of life, I was assailed by a lawless mob, and was driven from my house in Jackson County, to Clay County, my crops and all other property I possessed were taken from me, except a small part of household furniture. I stayed in Clay County for upwards of two years, when I was again assailed by a mob, who said I must deny my sentiments of religion or move from that county, but rather than deny my religion or be put to death, I disposed of my property at a low rate, and removed my family to Davis [Daviess] County, located myself on Grand River, made an improvement, gained to myself a preemption right, on which a small town was laid off; it was then worth to me at least ten thousand dollars. But some time in the month of September last I was ordered to leave my possessions again, and this by a mob, which was got up by Sashel Wood (a Presbyterian preacher), and Doctor Craven (who have since entered my land), without any other consideration than to get me chained up in prison and drive my family from the State without food and raiment to make them comfortable, they kept me in prison for six months, until they succeeded in driving every man, woman, and child (who professed the same religion that I do), out of the State, except those whom they murdered in the State, although they have never been able to substantiate the first accusation against me, yet my sufferings for seven years have been more severe than tongue can tell, or pen write.     Further items of history are found in the language of Joseph Smith:    Friday, May 18. I left Far West, in company with Sidney Rigdon, Thomas B. Marsh, David W. Patten, Bishop Partridge, Elias Higbee, Simeon Carter, Alanson Ripley, and many others, for the purpose of visiting the north country, and laying off a stake of Zion; making locations, and laying claim to lands to facilitate the gathering of the Saints, and for the benefit of the poor, in upholding the Church of God. We traveled to the mouth of Honey Creek, which is a tributary of Grand River, where we camped for the night. We passed through a beautiful country the greater part of which is prairie, (untimbered land), and thickly covered with grass and weeds, among which is plenty of game; such as deer, turkey, and prairie hen (elk, etc.). We discovered a large black wolf, and my dog gave him chase, but he outran us. We have nothing to fear in camping out, except the rattlesnake, which is natural to this country, though not very numerous. We turned our horses loose, and let them feed on the prairie.
    Saturday, 19. This morning we struck our tents and formed a line of march, crossing Grand River at the mouth of Honey Creek and Nelson's Ferry. Grand River is a large, beautiful, deep and rapid stream, during the high waters of Spring, and will undoubtedly admit of steam [page 132] boat navigation and other water craft; and at the mouth of Honey Creek are a splendid harbor and a good landing. We pursued our course up the river, mostly through timber, for about eighteen miles, when we arrived at Colonel Lyman Wight's who lives at the foot of Tower kill (a name I gave the place in consequence of the remains of an old Nephite altar or tower), where we camped for the Sabbath.
    In the afternoon I went up the river about half a mile to Wight's Ferry, accompanied by President Rigdon, and my Clerk, George W. Robinson, for the purpose of selecting and laying claim to a city plat near said ferry in Daviess County, township 60, ranges 27 and 28, and sections 25, 36, 31, and 30, which the brethren called "Spring Hill," but by the mouth of the Lord it was named Adam-ondi-Ahman, because, said He, it is the place where Adam shall come to visit his people, or the Ancient of Days shall sit, as spoken of by Daniel the Prophet. History of the Church, Vol.3, Ch.4, 34-35.
    Lyman Wight in speaking of these events says:
    About June, Joseph Smith, together with many others of the principal men of the Church, came to my house, and taking a view of the large bottom in the bend of the river and the beautiful prairies on the bluffs, [page 133] came to the conclusion that it would be a handsome situation for a town. We, therefore, commenced surveying and laying off town lots, and locating government lands for many miles north of this place. This beautiful country with its flattering prospects drew in floods of emigrants. I had not less than thirty comers and goers through the day during the three summer months, and up to the last mentioned date (October 30), there were upwards of two hundred houses built in this town, and also, about forty families living in their wagons. Rollin J. Britton, Early Days on the Grand River (Columbia Missouri State Historical Society, 1920), 67.
   


    June 28, 1838 a stake was organized here of which the following minutes were published:
    Adam-ondi-Ahman, Missouri, Daviess county, June 25, 1838. A conference of Elders and members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints was held in this place this day, for the purpose of organizing this Stake of Zion, called Adam-ondi-Ahman.
    The meeting convened at 10 o'clock a. m., in the grove near the house of Elder Lyman Wight.
    President Joseph Smith. Jun., was called to the chair. He explained the object of the meeting, which was to organize a Presidency and High [page 134] Council, to preside over this Stake of Zion, and attend to the affairs of the Church in Daviess county.
    It was then moved, seconded and carried by the unanimous voice of the assembly, that John Smith should act as President of the Stake of Adam-ondi-Ahman.
    Reynolds Cahoon was unanimously chosen first counselor, and Lyman Wight second counselor.
    After prayer the presidents ordained Elder Wight as second counselor. Vinson Knight was chosen acting Bishop pro tempore by the unanimous voice of the assembly.
    President John Smith then proceeded to organize the High Council. The councilors were chosen according to the following order, by a unanimous vote: John Lemon, first; Daniel Stanton, second; Mayhew Hillman, third; Daniel Carter, fourth; Isaac Perry, fifth; Harrison Sagers, sixth; Alanson Brown, seventh; Thomas Gordon, eighth; Lorenzo D. Barnes, ninth; George A. Smith, tenth ; Harvey Olmstead, eleventh; Ezra Thayer, twelfth.
    After the ordination of the councilors who had not previously been ordained to the High Priesthood, President Joseph Smith, Jun., made remarks by way of charge to the presidents and counselors, instructing them in the duties of their callings, and the responsibility of their stations, exhorting them to be cautious and deliberate in all their councils, and be careful and act in righteousness in all things.
    President John Smith, Reynolds Cahoon, and Lyman Wight then made some remarks.
    Lorenzo D. Barnes was unanimously chosen clerk of this Council and Stake. After singing the well known hymn, Adam-ondi-Ahman, the meeting closed by prayer by President Cahoon, and a benediction by President Joseph Smith, Jun.
    LORENZO D. BARNES,
    ISAAC PERRY, Clerks.
    -[History of the Church, Vol.3, Ch.4, 38-39].

Probable grove where stake was organized.

    The well-known hymn spoken of ready as follows:
    This earth was once a garden place,
    With all her glories common,
    And men did live a holy race,
    And worship Jesus face to face,
    In Adam-ondi-Ahman.

We read that Enoch walk'd with God,
    Above the power of mammon,
    While Zion spread herself abroad,
    And Saints and angels sung aloud,
    In Adam-ondi-Ahman.

Her land was good and greatly blest,
    Beyond old Israel's Canaan; [page 135]
    Her fame was known from east to west,
    Her peace was great, and pure the rest
    Of Adam-ondi-Ahman.
Hosannah to such days to come --
    The Savior's second coming,
    When all the earth in glorious bloom,
    Affords the Saints a holy home,
    Like Adam-ondi-Ahman.

    This influx of members of the church, the building of a city and the organization of the stake seemed to fill the inhabitants who had hitherto been peaceful with apprehension, and suspicion and trouble began, growing more and more serious until the property of the Saints was destroyed and they were driven from the State. All the incidents connected with these days of peril, space will not permit us to record here, but when troops approached Far West in Caldwell County, the men of Adam-ondi-Ahman went to the assistance of their brethren, and in their absence the mob despoiled their homes and destroyed the city. Of this Lyman Wight writes:
    "30th October. This morning about two o'clock came into my house two messengers from Far West and informed me that a large body of troops were encamped in half a mile of that place and for what purpose it was unknown. And as I had been the acting commander of that regiment, Joseph Smith and others requested that I would come forthwith to that place. In an hour's time I was mounted upon my favorite horse, Dragon, and one hundred and twenty mounted men by my side, lightly bounding over the vast prairies between this place and Far West, where we arrived about eight o'clock a. m. and found the whole town in an uproar, and twenty-two hundred well armed men encamped in half a mile of the town, professing to be militia of the State. My advice was to send immediately a flag of truce. This was believed to be a requisite (page 259) course, and accordingly George M. Hinkle and John Corrill were appointed to be the bearers of this flag. They came back and informed us, Joseph Smith, Parley P. Pratt, Sidney Rigdon, George W. Robinson, and Lyman Wight, that the chief officers of the army desired an interview with us, and that if we were not in the camp previous to six o'clock p. m. they would fall upon and destroy Far West together with its inhabitants; and that if we would come they would pledge their honor that we should be released that night or the next morning early. Accordingly we went and met the whole camp under [page 136] motion to receive us. Generals Lucas, Wilson, and Doniphan brandished their swords and made a short halt, when George M. Hinkle made his obeisance and said: 'Gentlemen, these are the prisoners whom I agreed to deliver up to you.' We were then hurried into camp in front of the mouth of a six-pounder, and placed under a strong guard of ninety soldiers, well armed. This proved to be a dismal night on the account of the rain, and three alarms in the course of the night, which brought every man to his feet, and placed him under arms. The hideous screeches and screaming of this wretched, murderous band would have made a perfect dead silence with the damned in hell. Thus I spent the first night after being imprisoned, for believing the Book of Mormon, and Joseph Smith to be a prophet of God. Journal of Lyman Wight, 30 October 1838, cited in History of the Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, 3: 258-259.
    About three o'clock a.m. being the anniversary of the day and the hour when this company left this place, the Historian arose, went out, and stood upon the point of the Hill Adam-ondi-Ahman, and while the full moon shed a soft sheen over the scene looked over the valley and hill toward Far West.
    Why was this company of devoted men permitted to march to [page 137] Far West on such a fruitless and futile mission when had they turned towards a point twenty miles east of Far West. . .
    About sunrise the next morning our party was climbing the hill of Adam-ondi-Ahman. The site of the city is now in a pasture and nothing remains but broken rocks and brick to mark the spots where the habitations and business houses of the once prosperous city existed. The panorama of river, valley, hills, farms, groves, and prairie land seen from this spot is truly grand and picturesque; while the site itself high above the river, with its greensward gently rolling down to [page 138] the rocky cliffs lining the river bank, forms a sight hard to surpass anywhere. Thence we passed over the rocky cliff to the river where in other days Wight's Ferry plied from shore to shore. The sight of this place awakened thoughts of many of hallowed memory who crossed here with high hopes and bright anticipations to plant homes in the beautiful city, or later despoiled of all their possessions crossing to escape the cruelty of the barbarous hordes who sought their destruction.
    One scene especially impresses itself upon the imagination. It is that of Agne's Smith, wife of Don Carlos who lived on the other side of the Grand River three miles away; and while her husband was far away on a mission of love had her house burned by the mob, and she, fleeing from her burning home waded the river, waist deep, perhaps at this point, carrying two small children in her arms, to find a refuge in the home of Lyman Wight.
    Crossing back over the Hill Adam-ondi-Ahman and the narrow valley we ascend the rocky sides of Tower Hill. On a narrow plateau one half of the way up we find the commodious two-story log house once the home of Lyman Wight, still standing, with two modern lean-to sheds attached, and the whole thing used for a barn, the upper story filled with hay. A magnificent view of the valley, the river and the shore beyond is had here. Our sensations can hardly be described as we remembered that this was the girlhood home of our own mother, that here on this rocky hillside she had many times played with her sister and brothers, that on that broad stone doorstep she had many times sat at eventide to see the setting sun gild the distant hills across the river, and that from the spring yonder at the foot of the hill she saw the despoilers of her home approaching and ran up this rocky path to warn her mother; [139] while her father was far away, detained in the hands of wicked men.
    This roof had sheltered the Prophet Joseph Smith, Sidney Rigdon, Hyrum Smith, David W. Patten, Thomas B. Marsh, Bishop Edward Partridge and many others who made history's pages.

LYMAN WIGHT HOUSE.
    Above the house on the crown of the hill, still plainly visible is the old "Nephite Altar" known in the neighborhood as "Adam's Grave." The superstitious still tell of lights seen there on Friday nights and that Adam comes out on these occasions. Where these traditions originated we do not know for there is no record of the Latter Day Saints claiming, in that early day, that Adam was buried there. This altar when it was first visited by Joseph Smith and his company was said [page 140] to have been about sixteen feet long by nine or ten feet wide, having its greatest extent north and south, the height at each end was two and a half feet above the surface of the ground and gradually rising towards the center where it was between four and five feet high, the whole surface being crowned, but it is now but a mound of crumbling stones with a depression in the center.


Mrs. James W. Davis, Mrs. Charles Brackenbury, and Mrs. Heman C. Smith

NEPHITE ALTAR.
    Pursuing our journey south, and eastward we pass through Gallatin, the county seat of Daviess County, where the riot occurred August 6, 1838, caused by the mob trying to prevent the members of the church from voting, which resulted in several cracked heads and bruised bodies. Here also Captain David W. Patten, under orders from Colonel Lyman Wight, who received his orders from General Parks, dashed into town at the head of sixty men and dispersed a mob of one hundred [page 141] who were so anxious to get away that some of them cut their bridles before mounting their horses, leaving the horses to carry them any direction they pleased, their only anxiety seemingly was to put some distance between them and Patten. Here in 1839 Joseph Smith and his fellow prisoners were [page 142] arraigned before a grand jury composed it is said, of ruffians who had participated the year before in the massacre at Haun's Mill. Indictments were returned and they were granted a change of venue to Boone County, and when on the way the officers permitted them to escape. There is nothing in Gallatin to indicate the location of these scenes.

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